Axel Probst reviews Taylor’s Very Very Old White Port.
Other than the Chip Dry White Port, which is used primarily for the legendary aperitif Portonic, head enologist David Guimaraens has never blended a white Port in his life and certainly not a serious white Port like the newly released Taylor’s Very Very Old White Port. When David came home from his education in Australia in 1990, Taylor used to blend some Vinho branco velho (old White Port) into the regular 40 Year Old Tawny Port. At that time, it was usual for red and white cask-matured Ports to be married. So, aged white Port was not new to David, but to blend this Very Very Old Port was a completely new challenge—one that he has mastered very well.
For this project, David finally selected eight components from different origins for the final blend, the oldest one from the legendary Vintage Port year 1896. David’s target was to combine freshness, the “wow-factor”, complexity, and drinkability. His aim is generally to reduce the sugar level in the company’s Ports, so that they have more freshness and less sweetness, which is even more important when Port comes of age. The blend was made in March this year and went directly to the pipa afterwards, to achieve the final balance and structure. David strongly believes that such old wines then need several months to reach that perfect point, so the final bottling was as late as July.
Since last year, such venerable Ports have been defined either as “Very Very Old Port” or as “80 Year Old Port.” I think that “Very Very” is very confusing, especially when there is a more precise alternative. The Fladgate Partnership opted for “Very Very Old Port (VVOP)” to be in-line with its preceding VVOP Tawny Port. Like that previous release, this white version also comes in a luxurious decanter and box.
Related
Finesse and richness
“The first duty of Port is to be red,” was a phrase attributed to Ernest Cockburn from the 1920s, to illustrate his reluctance to embrace innovation in the Port industry, given that all traditional Ports were made from red grapes at that time. Incidentally, the phrase ends with, “and the second duty is to be drunk.” So, if you are tasting this Taylor’s Very Very Old White Port, it is quite likely that Cockburn had in his glass something similar to what you are tasting now, but almost a century later.
A few years ago, I had the great pleasure of tasting many old Ports directly from the vat, including an astonishing 1896 white Colheita, and this most recent edition from Taylor contains parts of this old white Port made two centuries ago. To taste this Port pure, without any additions, was magical, but it lacked the freshness and drinkability that you will find in this blended Very Very Old White.
Many of the component Ports were made at a time when the Douro looked completely different to how it does today. There was no electricity (which was only widely installed in the mid-1960s), transport was done by railway or by barcos rabelos (the flat boats that sailed the 60+ miles [100+ km] from the quintas to Porto), and literally everything was done by hand.
Content from our partners
As the name implies, a White Port is made entirely from white grapes. The Douro region boasts more than 40 indigenous white grape varieties, but the finesse and richness of these old vineyards stem from the mixed plantations known as vinhas velhas. These vineyards can contain up to 30 varieties within a single hectare (2.47 acres), so a few red grapes may even be included.
That said, with a little experience, you can always tell the difference between a Tawny Port made solely from red grapes and a White Port of the same age. A Tawny Port lightens in color with age, whereas White Port deepens. In my experience, it is almost impossible to see the difference between the two at around 80 years of age. This does not, however, apply to the taste. Compared to old Tawny Ports, White Ports tend to be fresher and better balanced, making them easier to enjoy… and a second glass well-nigh irresistible.
Tasting
Taylor’s Very Very Old White Port (20% ABV)
This Taylor VVOP White shows dark golden and green reflections in a completely transparent, dark orange color, with hints of red. The very balanced yet powerful bouquet contains butterscotch, vanilla, dried apricot, and mild orange flavors. The palate is perfectly supported by acidity, with notes of juicy orange, apricot, dried nuts, almonds, white pepper, and milk chocolate. An extremely long, fresh, and delicate aftertaste. | 98
