SR | This 2017 Riesling from the Rosacker opens with chalky, intense, yet also refined, lemon and seed-fruit aromas, while also revealing some matured (petrol) notes. Intense and dense on the palate, this is a lush and round, quite tannic Riesling, with a rich and intense fruit yet still slightly drying tannins. The wine is intense, very long and complex, and will shine only in 4 or 5 years from now. 95
AJ | Greensilver still, despite its age. Sappy, fresh, taut, and tight—you would never guess this was a 2017. An aroma that still seems to be in its earliest youth and some way off full articulacy, quite obviously. Apple and pear purity, with a very fine and fragrant line to it, and a little leafiness, but drawn back very tightly, almost provocatively. This is exactly what you find on the palate, a kind of moonshot of searching, green-apple-and-grapefruit acidity, arcing off into time and the stratosphere in search of articulacy. Will it find it? Probably. But at the moment there are more gratifying Rosackers than this challengingly reductive style, good though it is. Almost for masochists just now; best wait 10 years. 92
AR | Very pale in color, especially for a dry white of six years of age, this is showing all the required evolution in the complexity of its fragrance, with top notes of citrus with a floral underlay, a light gentle spritz spray on the tongue to add texture to an incredibly youthful dry white, whose layers of lime-citrus flavors are held aloft on a firm spine of crisp, minerally acidity that maintains and enhances the flavors of an elegantly wrought dry white of considerable class. 95