SF | Pale gold; the bubbles are quite diffuse but persistent. The nose combines green and citric fruit, soft spice, and a hint of iodine. Quite forward and “old school,” hints of toffee-apple and quince, the structure maybe somewhat diffuse, the sugar not fully integrated, the acidity jagged and somewhat coarse. But on the more positive side, there is an immediate appeal and quite a firm, authoritative finish. 90
EA | Medium-deep lemon color. Pronounced nose, with notable tertiary evolution. There is toastiness and woodiness to it, not quite able to hide the vegetal edge of the aromas. The spicy characters add to the expressive complexity of the wine. There is good concentration and volume to the structured and fresh palate. Vinous, energetic, and juicy, with the mousse feeling well-integrated and stylishly calm. A long finish of woody spiciness, this feels as if there is more complexity to emerge. 2023–33. 93
TH | Quite a briny, oxidative approach, with dried-pear fruit and roasted spices. Broad, saturated, and grippy, with moderate length and some stalky grip, this shows plenty of the year's characteristics. 84