SF | Lemon-straw, with an excitable mousse. Citric aromatic, earthy, a touch austere… Yet on second tasting, it seems a little oxidative… Quite a mystery! As with many of these 2015s, the palate is more forthcoming, its fruit seemingly riper than anticipated, and yet also symptomatic; the architecture is shaking a little; maybe not yet integrated or maybe built of less stern stuff than one might have expected. Time will tell! 89
EA | Medium-deep lemon color. The ripe, fruity nose comes with a strong ashes tone. Apple juice and pear compote. The vegetal austerity continues on the firm and edgy palate. Even the mousse shows some nervosity. This wine carries a very strong mark of the vintage. 2023–30. 89
TH | Buttery pastry, green apricot, and orange peel mark this expressive, open nose, which avoids too much herbaceousness while presenting plenty of the year's maturity. Broad, saturated Pinot Noir dominates the palate, which is weighty with roasted stone fruit and charry lemon peel. Intense and rounded, marked on the finish with appealing grapefruit bitterness. 2023–29. 88