SF | Amber to brick; medium intensity; complex aromatic of smoke, dried fruit, vanillin, and resin; quite a lot to unpick, in other words. The palate helps us considerably. This is an old-school example, oxidation taken in its stride, the spicy, truffly fruit, leather texture, and fulsome grip all pointing, resplendently, in one direction: the apotheosis of a wood-aged Port in style, for better or for worse. Many will vouch the former. 93
AJ | Clear and russet-walnut in color. Sound, but without the refinement and charm of the best; almost a touch of kerosene here, or something terpene-like. To be fair, this could also be an effect of the hillside herbs—and it's a note that clears with time in the air. Pretty solid on the palate, but without the fine-spun charm and ultra-allusiveness of the very best. Satisfying rather than spellbinding. 2024–27. 87
RM | Mid-deep brick-red, with a broad tawny rim and a green glint; ripe, welcoming, and voluptuous on the nose and on the palate, with lovely, savory richness offset by spicy complexity; big but suave, with some tannic astringency remaining mid-palate and on to the finish. Full and complete. Very satisfying. 92