SF | Translucent soft mahogany, gently receding to a lighter rim. A nose of suede, plum, and crystalized lemon, hints of soft spice and citric fruit; the oxidative subtext is deftly writ and sits well on a wine that approaches its second decade. The palate is a little more raw than expected, assertive acidity harnessed in the name of longevity, no doubt, but hitherto slightly aggressive. Behind that, one discerns ginger(bread), bitter chocolate, and a herbal twist. Complex, therefore, for all its strutting and fretting. I think this one will really sing in five to ten years, although some may already like its forthright declamation. 90
AJ | Deep russet-red, with garnet glints. Broad, nose-filling aroma: a billow of sweet red fruits, with sweet vanilla and spice. Some plump wild mushrooms beneath. Big, broad, and exuberant on the palate, with lots of tangy depth; even a little extractive at the end. There is balancing acidity here, too, and a long finish, with notes of tar, raisin, and fig—a little sweeter in repertoire than the nose suggested. Exuberant and satisfying Colheita. 2024 –29. 89
RM | Lovely brick-red to tawny hue; showing mostly secondary, slightly roasted, savory, cask-aged character on the nose, with a hint of underlying, creamy milk chocolate; similarly rich and refined on the palate, with a silky smoothness just piqued with a dusting of tannin mid-palate and onto the finish. Gentle and seamless, showing some finesse. Rather lovely. 90