SF | Straw yellow, the nose smoky and a little uninspiring. The palate is equally challenged , challenging, oxidised and yet anchored by uncompromising acidity. Tiring, it would seem... 86
AJ | Full gold now. Mellow and voluptuous, but beginning to lose a little drive, concentration and 'volume'; the wine is sinking back on its haunches. But very attractively so: a lovely combination of mushroom, honey and vanilla. Gorgeous nuttiness, too. Just a super mature-wine nose: nothing but delight. I'd love to spend a few hours with this. Very lush and mellow, but kept as bright and alert as you like by its arresting and structural acidity, which in this case is also mellow and allusive. A wonderful end result: a kind of carousel of tropical fruit with the acid-energy of lemon and lime driving the carousel and keeping it spinning. Lovely extractive force, too. Totally commanding and absolutely at its apogee, though I don't sense any need to hurry.Drink Dates: 2024 - 2029. 93
RM | mid deep golden hue; rich heady smoky, beurre blanc character but now showing its age on the nose and just on the verge of turning oily mid-palate, redeemed by a streak of citrusy acidity which rises on to the finish. Impressive but just starting to wane.Drink Dates: 2024 - 2026. 89