Essi Avellan: Pale lemon-green. Mild, youthful nose of white fruit and confectionary. Not Champagne- like on the palate. Hollow, pungent palate, with unclean whiffs. Unpleasant finish. 11

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold; steady mousse. Aromatically quiet, faintly seaweedy; very lean palate, with green fruits and a little more seaweed and samphire for complexity, but also a slightly cardboardy note, too. “Mineral,” faintly saline finish. Not an unqualified success, but an interesting Champagne all the same, and I’d like to know where it came from. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Plenty of fruit backed up by excellent acidity, with fine floral fruit tapering toward the finish, spoiled only by an oxidative touch. Drink; do not keep. 15