By Alex Hunt MW | November 30 2020
Funky and contemporary in conception, Charlie Bird has hit on an appealing formula with its short, sharp menu of simple but beautifully rendered dishes at a fair price. Diners can choose from a range of small or large plates, raw or pasta dishes – with highlights including farro salad with pistachio, cherry tomatoes, mint and Parmigiano; or Block Island black bass with sweet peas and black trumpet mushrooms.
As might be expected from a list put together by co-owner and top sommelier Robert Bohr, it’s the wine that’s really got people talking about Charlie Bird. It is a short but superbly focused list, where every choice has earned its place on merit – and is available as a half bottle. So while you won’t get an exhaustive list of producers from each region, you do get a choice of some of the best: Californians Mathiasson, Arnot-Roberts, and Pierson Meyer, say; or Barolo’s GD Vajra, and Bartolo and Giuseppe Mascarello. With prices realistic and evenly spread, the list entertains rather than strains to impress, and is all the better for it.