There’s a new look, and a new name, for Marcus Wareing’s two Michelin-starred restaurant in the Berkeley Hotel in London’s Mayfair, which has dispensed with the chef’s surname along with the design clutter during an extensive refit. The new “clean” machine remains a leading light of London’s fine-dining scene, however, with Wareing collaborating in the kitchen with head chef Mark Froydenlund on an “updated” menu of “modern European food with a British influence.”
The wine list, too, continues to offer one of the best selections in London, an equally clutter-free collection that, while strong in classic French and, to lesser extent, Italian wine, is not afraid to venture further afield with astute selections from Australia (from Mac Forbes to Giaconda); the USA (from Oregon’s Sokol Blosser to Napa Valley’s Abreu); and New Zealand (Felton Road or Burn Cottage). With vintages chosen on merit rather than for completion’s sake, this is a concise, thoughtful, cleanly presented list to complement one of the UK’s most consistently impressive kitchens.
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