Jungsik Yim, the Korean chef who has lent his name (which also happens to mean “formal dinner” in his native tongue) to this New York restaurant, calls his style of cooking “New Korean.” That means filtering local and international ingredients and styles through the vernacular of Korean cuisine, to create dishes such as rack of lamb ginger soy salsa, or foie gras barley risotto, fresh black truffle. This kind of creative cooking requires real skill from the wine team to find suitable matches—and our judges felt Jungsik succeeded in this task with distinction.
Not surprisingly, given these wines’ facility with fiery spice, the list is long on the aromatic whites—particularly Riesling—of Alasce, Germany, and Austria. Burgundy and Bordeaux—the two names that diners at this level just won’t do without—are represented, but not in box-ticking form: a move that is typical of a selection that feels curated rather than merely copied from the nearest glossy wine magazine.
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