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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020


By Thierry Dessauve

Though the name Bagatelle has been a feature of the Oslo dining scene since the 1930s, the team behind its current incarnation is relatively recent. In 2013, Allan Poulsen took over in the kitchen, with Robert Lie and Niklas Johansson overseeing day-to-day operations. The new team brought with them a new philosophy, expressed in a single, changing multi-course tasting menu, drawing on local ingredients such as sea urchin, cod, king crab, and pork matched with what our judges thought was the most impressive wine list in Scandinavia.

There are some 1,350 bins to choose from, but what earned Bagatelle its spot on the shortlist for the Best Wine List in Europe was the way it balances the quirky, new, and hip, with a deep selection of acknowledged classics producers. At Bagatelle you’ll find Nicolas Vauthier’s natural-minded négociant Vini Viti Vinci alongside the magnums of J-F Mugnier and the verticals of DRC; the Jura wines of Stéphane Tissot and the funky Roussillon of Matassa as well as flights of first growths. There’s also space for South Africa’s Eben Sadie and Portugal’s Alvaro Castro to go with the wonderful collections of German Riesling and Italian rosso, in a list that is put together with flair.

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