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November 30, 2020updated 03 Nov 2021 3:37am

Caprice

By Alex Hunt MW

In its setting overlooking Victoria Harbor on the sixth floor of Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, Caprice offers refined classical French cuisine with Moroccan and Mediterranean influences prepared by chef de cuisine Fabrice Vulin.

Vulin’s signatures dishes include caramelized pigeon breast, Moroccan spices, and raz el hanout flavor; and milk-fed veal fillet with anchovy, zucchini de Provence, and eggplant caviar in natural jus. And they are superbly complemented by the collection of classic French wines that earned Caprice a place on the shortlist for Asia’s Best Wine List.

At the heart of the Caprice list is a big-name cast of the greats of Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy, from Pierre Gimonnet Spécial Club Blanc de Blancs 2002 to Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 2007 via Château Margaux 1982. But the list is strong on Alsace, the Loire, and the Rhône too, and includes forays further afield, to New Zealand’s Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2009 and South Africa’s Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2012.

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