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November 30, 2020updated 03 Nov 2021 4:55am

Charlie Bird

By Alex Hunt MW

Funky and contemporary in conception, Charlie Bird has hit on an appealing formula with its short, sharp menu of simple but beautifully rendered dishes at a fair price. Diners can choose from a range of small or large plates, raw or pasta dishes – with highlights including farro salad with pistachio, cherry tomatoes, mint and Parmigiano; or Block Island black bass with sweet peas and black trumpet mushrooms.

As might be expected from a list put together by co-owner and top sommelier Robert Bohr, it’s the wine that’s really got people talking about Charlie Bird. It is a short but superbly focused list, where every choice has earned its place on merit – and is available as a half bottle. So while you won’t get an exhaustive list of producers from each region, you do get a choice of some of the best: Californians Mathiasson, Arnot-Roberts, and Pierson Meyer, say; or Barolo’s GD Vajra, and Bartolo and Giuseppe Mascarello. With prices realistic and evenly spread, the list entertains rather than strains to impress, and is all the better for it.

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