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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020

Craft Restaurant

By Thierry Dessauve

The original outlet in chef Tom Colicchio’s burgeoning “Craft” empire (which now includes venues across the US), Craft New York is all about local ingredients, simply but impeccably prepared. The local suppliers behind those ingredients are listed on the side of the menu, which is really a set of ingredients and their preparations: roasted cod, striped bass, or guinea hen; braised halibut or beef short rib.

The focus on provenance and small producers is carried over to the clean, unfussy, but funky wine list, which is a dream team of small-scale excellence from all over the world. An impeccable palate is at work here, equally adept at taking the path less travelled (to the exceptional English sparkling wine estate Gusbourne, the elegant Australian Riesling of Mac Forbes, or Marenzao Algueira Riberia Sacra), or sourcing in the more familiar world of top Burgundy, Piedmont, and California. Prices are fair, there’s a good range of half-bottles, and a feeling that the sommeliers are at the top of their craft.

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