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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020

Craftsteak

By Thierry Dessauve

Tom Colicchio’s Las Vegas outpost takes the James Beard Award-winning chef and restaurateur’s deceptively simple, ingredient-centered formula and applies it to the traditional American steakhouse. Grilled and roasted beef is the star attraction here, with finest-quality cuts of Angus and domestic and Japanese Wagyu, taking their place alongside an array of fish and alluring vegetable sides and appetizers.

As with all of Colicchio’s venues, the clearly laid-out wine list is never less than intriguing. It opens with a trio of by-the-glass flights that provide an excellent snapshot of the wide-ranging pleasures contained over the next 60-or-so pages. At the time of judging, a monthly special flight at $35 per guest featured Skouras Moschofilero, Greece, Nozzole Chianti Classico, and Tintero Moscato d’Asti, while the Explorer flight takes guests on a journey from Talbott Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow, Santa Lucia Highlands to the Royal Tokaji Co’s Mad Cuvée via Jordan’s Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.

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