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  1. Wine & Food
December 1, 2020

Dabbous

By Thierry Dessauve

Ollie Dabbous’ refined but elemental modern cooking has been widely, wildly acclaimed. Offering dishes based on simple but unusual flavour juxtapositions (such as barbecued octopus with cassava, sesame, and violet mustard or home-cured goose with fenugreek) the restaurant was described by Evening Standard critic Fay Maschler as “a game-changer.”

“Like the food menu, Head Sommelier Charles Pashby-Taylor ensures the wine list is short and regularly updated but as the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists 2015 said, while it may be “pretty tightly edited, it has all the right elements and lots of exciting options.”

At Dabbous there is space for classics such as Comtes Lafon Mersault 1er Cru Perrières 2006 or Château Figeac St-Emilion 1998, but there are also many rising-star producers such as Mullineux from Swartland, South Africa or Domaine Columbu from Corsica, as well as a neat by-the-glass program, a good selection of dessert wines, and well-chosen Sherry from Sanchez Romate.

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