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December 1, 2020

Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen

By Thierry Dessauve

At his eponymous restaurant in Forest Hills, New York, chef-patron Danny Brown has drawn on his varied culinary experiences in creating a deliciously eclectic menu.

As well as offering a menu solely devoted to a range of cured meats and cheeses, Brown’s main menu features such globetrotting dishes as sweet pea ravioli, black olive crumble, housemade ricotta, mint, and majoram; or roasted Opal Farms lamb tenderloin with merguez, spiced couscous, roasted carrots, sunchoke, and lamb jus.

The wine list backs this up with a succinct selection that makes the most of every bin, squeezing in a great deal of variety and interest as it travels from Mastroberardino Falanghina del Sannio, Campania, Italy to Loimer Austrian Grüner Veltliner, and from Eola-Amity Hills Bethel Heights Vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir to Bàrbara Forés Coma d’En Pou Terra Alta. It’s a fine shorter list that works superbly in a restaurant inspired by the tapas bars of Spain and enotecas of Italy.

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