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November 30, 2020updated 03 Nov 2021 4:35am

Dinner by Heston

By Alex Hunt MW

Where do you go after creating a restaurant as singular and acclaimed as The Fat Duck? The answer, if you’re Heston Blumenthal, is back in time, to Britain’s much-maligned culinary heritage, which provides the inspiration for the dishes on the menu overseen by chef Ashley Palmer-Watts at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental, Hyde Park.

Blumenthal has always been a wine-curious chef, and the wine list at Dinner, like the one assembled by his team at The Fat Duck, is as creative and wide-ranging as ever. This is a list that finds space for a small but well-chosen set of new-wave Portuguese (Soalheiro, Filipa Pato, Niepoort) and intriguing southern French (Roc d’Anglade, Alain Brumont, Domaine Madeloc), as well as strong selections of mature Bordeaux and Burgundy; a list that has Virginian and New York State wines as well as top California; and a list that includes Marjan Simcic’s Leonardo from Slovenia in a brilliantly eclectic range of sweet wines.

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