Tradition is the watchword at Philadelphia’s La Famiglia. As the name suggests, the restaurant’s roots go back to post-war Naples, where the restaurant’s original chef-patron Carlo Sena started his culinary career. The Sena family opened what remains one of Philadelphia’s top restaurants in 1976, serving an array of classic Italian dishes, and quickly earning a reputation for its superb service. With Carlo’s sons Giuseppe and Gino now at the helm, La Famiglia retains its formal charm, which is nowhere more apparent than in its extensive wine list. Presented without fuss, this is one of the world’s more remarkable collections of fine Italian wine, offering a chi è chi of the country’s top producers. There are rarities here—mature vintages from the stars of Tuscany (Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1945), Piemonte (Gaja Barbaresco 1961), and the family’s original homeland in Campania (Mastoberardino Avellanio 1988). But these are complemented by a sound range of affordable bottles in a wine offering that matches the cuisine and ambience perfectly.