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November 30, 2020updated 03 Nov 2021 3:44am

La Pergola

By Alex Hunt MW

There are many reasons why La Pergola Restaurant in Rome’s Cavalieri Hotel is the only restaurant in the city to earn three Michelin stars. There is the food, of course, created by executive chef Heinz Beck with trademark intricacy of presentation and clarity of flavor. There is the setting, in a luxurious dining room with fine views of The Eternal City. Even the selection of water, with 29 different labels, is unlike anywhere else. And then there is the wine cellar, a collection of fine, rare, and old bottles that is described without exaggeration by La Pergola as “vast.” Overseen by multiple award-winning sommelier Marco Reitano, it runs to some 3,500 different labels and more than 60,000 bottles, stored in a series of air-conditioned rooms. Featuring verticals of a who’s who of the world’s top wine producers, with the great names of Italy featuring strongly alongside their peers in Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the rest of the world, it also includes 100s of accessibly priced wines in what is a veritable vinous Aladdin’s Cave.

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