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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020

Les Nomades

By Thierry Dessauve

As befits a restaurant that promises “a fresh expression of French cuisine,” Les Nomades’ wine list has a fine selection of French classic wine. Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, the Loire, and the Rhône are all well represented, but the presentation is neat rather than never-ending. This is a selection of producers and vintages that feels as if it’s been thought-about, edited, rather than merely thrown together by the wine guide-score, and there are judicious picks from lesser-known appellations such as Madiran, Cahors, and the current fashionable favorite, Jura, alongside the classic regions’ heavy hitters.

But Les Nomades is not simply a French collection. Just as the menu is underscored by high-quality American ingredients, so there is a high-quality selection of Californian wine, and a seasoning of interesting bottles from around the world (Italy, Spain, Australia, Austria, New Zealand). Clearly presented, and fairly priced, it’s a fresh, engaging list.

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