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November 30, 2020updated 03 Nov 2021 4:56am

Martin Berasategui

By Alex Hunt MW

When you have an avant-garde kitchen as restlessly creative as Martín Berasategui’s in his eponymous restaurant just outside San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque country, it’s perhaps inevitable that the wine list will take an original approach. And in its layout as much as the bottles it describes, Berasategui’s list is nothing if not original: bottles are ordered according to the climate in which they were produced, from Continental, to Atlantic, to “Meridional,” with the view that this will help guests choose wines to match the various dishes on Berasategui’s menu.

In other hands, this might have made for a confusing as much as original experience, but the logic is clearly explained, such that even those guests who aren’t motivated to choose their wine by climate can find their favorite bottles without difficulty. And there’s plenty to choose from in a list that, while strong in multiple Spanish denominations, is a truly international affair, from Bierzo to Bordeaux, and from Tenerife to Tuscany.

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