Patina

The flagship restaurant of chef Joachim Splichal’s and restaurateur Nick Valenti’s Patina Group, Patina is housed in the architecturally daring Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Opera House in Los Angeles. It’s testament to the pair’s talent, therefore, that the operation is never overawed by its spectacular surroundings. As a review in the put it, “every note” here “rings true.” And that applies to the wine list every bit as much as it does to Spilchal’s elegant modern Californian menu.

Thoughtfully presented by variety and region, the selection ranges around the world, with California arguably the highlight in shape of extensive collections of the region’s Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon/Meritage, and Pinot Noir, as well as as a collection of “interesting alternative varieties” such as De Rose Négrette, Cienega Valley and Gargiulo VineyardsAprile Sangiovese, Napa Valley. Burgundy is also well represented, not least Domaine de la Romanée-Conti—the legendary producer being the only one on the list to get its own dedicated section, which runs to two pages. Ultimately, however, this is a broad and engaging list that is as much about accessibly priced bottles as stellar names.