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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020

Restaurant JM at Hotel Jörg Müller

By Thierry Dessauve

Featuring two restaurants, a bistro, and a bar, top German chef Jörg Müller’s homely hotel on the island of Sylt is one of the country’s foremost culinary destinations. A meal at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant is the big draw, with Müller’s inventive French-influenced cuisine including dishes such as veal fillet on black pudding with young vegetables; and lukewarm marinated char with smoked fish mousse and beetroot.

The wine list—one of the best in Germany—offers 100s of inviting choices to match Müller’s creations. What the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists 2015 described as a “huge range full of top producers and older vintages,” starts with a region-by-region tour of German wine that takes in red delights such as Baden’s Meyer-Näkel Dernauer Pfarrwingert Frühburgunder GG as well as the greats of Riesling from Bassermann-Jordan to Van Volxem. But it is equally strong in the rest of Europe—Italy, Spain, and Portugal, with many mature selections from both Burgundy and (especially) Bordeaux. Concluding with a run of fine old Vintage Port and a magnificent collection of Krug, it’s a fine-dining wine list par excellence.

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