A zeitgeisty modern American restaurant in a restored 1890 print shop in central Chicago, Sepia is a showcase of the seasonal, ingredient-led cuisine of head chef Andrew Zimmermann. Zimmermann brings a stylish, gently innovative touch to classical dishes. And the wine list, with its emphasis on small, organic, biodynamic, and sustainable producers, and on unusual regions and grape varieties, is the perfect foil for Zimmermann’s food. Beautifully presented, and featuring a great deal of useful information from the wine team, the list starts with a typically intelligent showcase of the emerging wines of Portugal, featuring top bottles from Quinta de Foze de Arouce, in Beiras, and Casa de Mouraz in the Dão, among others. And that’s just a flavour of the adventurous bottles to follow, on a list that is intent on highlighting interesting flavors from all over the vinous world.