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  1. Wine & Food
December 1, 2020

State Bird Provisions

By Thierry Dessauve

Running to a just a few dozen bins, the wine list at this brilliantly quirky—or, as the team at State Bird Provisions prefers to put it, “adventurous, inventive, delicious, thoughtful, contemporary”—American restaurant, is not long.

But what it lacks in scale it more than makes up for in depth and imagination, with a brilliantly wide-ranging selection of fine producers to match such dishes as duck liver mousse with almond biscuit, or spicy kimichi yuba primavera with smoked egg bottarga.

It’s a list that will appeal to Riesling lovers, with six selections from Franz Hirtzberger Federspiel, Steinterassen, Wachau to Maxim Grünhaus Herrenberg, Kabinett Off-Dry Mosel. But it never takes the expected path, offering Cinsault (Turely Bechtoldt Vineyard, Lodi) and Albariño (Abrente, Napa Valley) from Calfornia and Altesse from Savoie (Bernard Lupin, Fragny) alongside much-loved producers such as Thivin in Beaujolais and Lopéz de Heredia in Rioja.

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