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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020

Sundmans Krog

By Thierry Dessauve

The 2,000-bin collection serves both the Sundmans restaurants—the smart “19th-century bourgeois house” of GW Sundmans, and the more informal, street-level Sundmans Krog—offering matches for refined Finnish dishes such as roasted pike perch, spring potato, and dill; and crayfish tartar, oyster cream, and cucumber.

There is no single speciality on the wine list, which instead roams widely around the world in search of interesting bottles. That might take the guest to Count Stephan von Neipperg’s Bulgarian “claret” Enira 2008 or to a magnum of Vega-Sicilia Único 1981; it might mean Alain Brumont’s Château Montus Madiran 1990, or it could be Grosset-Hill Smith’s Mesh Eden Valley Riesling 2011. Equally strong in Europe and the New World, and featuring both the established and the rising star, the Sundmans list is a broad and imaginative selection.

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