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  1. Wine & Food
December 1, 2020

The Capital Hotel

By Thierry Dessauve

The second of Nathan Outlaw’s restaurants to earn a coveted World’s Best Wine Lists three-star award in 2015, Outlaw’s at The Capital has the same risk-tasking, wide-ranging brilliance as the Cornish chef’s two Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant in Rock.

To match the range of beautifully prepared modern British dishes based on impeccable ingredient sourcing from Outlaw’s Cornish fishermen suppliers, the wine list is full of delicious surprises and established classics.

The strong by-the-glass selection kicks things off with an eclectic two-dozen bins that, at the time of judging, ranged from Domaine Torracia in Corsica, Cattunaur in Croatian Istria, and Gerhard Pittnauer from Burgenland in Austria to familiar names such as Hugel in Alsace, Krug in Champagne, and Chavy-Chouet in Burgundy.

The Sommelier’s Selection of five wines is no less imaginative, featuring north Italian Sylvaner from Peter Pilger in Trentino-Alto Adige, a white Rhône Ranger from Iglenook in Napa Valley, a Croatian Bordeaux blend from Cossetto in Istria, a superb Loire Gamay from Levin, and a mature Bordeaux in the shape of Château Beychevelle St-Julien 1995. But that’s just a small selection of a list that offers a picturesque tour of the more interesting corners of the contemporary wine world.

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