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  1. Wine & Food
December 1, 2020

The Pawn

By Thierry Dessauve

“Small but perfectly balanced” is how the judges at the World’s Best Wine Lists describe the wine list at Hong Kong’s The Pawn, a modern take on the steakhouse that offers a range of Wagyu and USDA beef cuts alongside ribs, burgers, salt cod and upmarket macaroni with a choice of lobster, braised beef, Ibérico ham, or truffle.

Every choice counts on a short international list that offers a fine introduction to some of the world’s most intriguing modern winemakers. English sparkling wine from Chapel Down and grower Champagne from Aubry sits alongside Ruinart and Pol Roger; southwestern French star Alain Brumont and natural New Zealanders Pyramid Valley rub shoulders with Burgundy’s Vincent Giradin among the whites; and steak choices range from California’s Ramey to Australia’s Giant Steps and the Rhône’s Roger Sabon.

With many wines available by the glass, and with a range of fair prices, this is a model shortlist full of personality.

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