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  1. Wine & Food
November 30, 2020


By Thierry Dessauve

It may be set in a magnificently ornate baroque dining room that recalls the pre-Revolutionary days of Tsarist Russia, but Moscow’s Turandot has a decidedly modern feel to its menu of Asian and European dishes. Similarly, the retro, typewritten feel of the wine list, while lingering lovingly over the French classic regions, can’t disguise a decidedly modern sensibility in the wine buying.

It’s not the longest list awarded three stars in the World’s Best Wine Lists awards. But, by choosing its vintages and producers carefully, favoring breadth rather than depth (single vintages from a spread of favorite producers rather than verticals from a handful), it offers plenty of variety, from rare old gems such as Domaine Marc Bredif Vouvray 1945 to the modern Rioja of Bodegas Roda “Roda I” Reserva 2007; and from the great Victorian estate Mount Mary’s Quintet 2001 to Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 1999, via quirky choices from Japan and Russia and an excellent selection of Grande Marque Champagne.

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