Simon Field: Fade at the rim, tawny before its time; legs flirt with the glass, and the nose is rather oxidized; bruised apple and high levels of volatility. The palate maintains and amplifies the diaspora between the acidity (volatile and otherwise) and the pleasant fruit character, with raisins and currants adorning the Christmas cake and plenty of seasonal plush. A shame, therefore, but I suspect that the raw material has been compromised by the winemaking and that there is no way back from here. | 86

Andrew Jefford: Clear and translucent, now; deep red, clearing at the rim to brick-red. Warm, soft-focus aromas from which all primary fruit has more or less disappeared, leaving lots of menthol, leather, and licorice. A warm, dry-grass and dry-cherry palate, from which once again the primary fruit is missing, though there are still some firm tannins. The wine has a warm finish, which owes as much to spirit as sunlight, so I would drink this up before too long, though it remains a tasty drink. | 81

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep center, broad, maturing rim; rather dirty, stewed aromas, little or no fruit evident; leathery and mature on the palate, some richness, with dusty tannins onto the finish. Not much pleasure here. Second bottle marked by TCA. | 74