Jamie Goode | This is deeply colored, and it’s a bold wine, with some coffee and toast on the nose, alongside some lime oil and incense. The palate is broad, with the peachy, toasty richness countered by some citrus brightness. Nutty and evolved, this is a bit all over the place. It’s very rich, with lots of everything, and it hasn’t developed in a very interesting way, alas. | 84

Peter Richards | Deep hue, golden lemon. Rich, buttery aromas, with roasted nuts. Glazed apple fruit. Some honeyed evolution, too. Complex, fine, savory. The alcohol is notable on the finish— would be great to have that dialled down a notch or two because, while the broad shoulders in the wine do sustain it, you sense you couldn’t drink too much without falling off your chair. Lovely acidity, nutty complexity, savory stylings. Impressive. | 92

David Williams | There’s still plenty of life left here, in a wine that comes across like a white Rioja rather than a Burgundy: plenty of old wooden furniture oak and savory character, but it has a really sparky, luminous core; well-made in an engagingly and bravely different style. | 92