Simon Field | A heady soapy aroma, a fin de siècle soap opera but without any dramatic tension; fat rather than flamboyant; a Cavalier on the way to Marston Moor. An oily, somewhat oxidative texture; the acidity is discreet at best, and there is an impression of excess, the fruit profile an exotic Gauguinesque caricature—which may or may not be coaxed into flavorsome submission by a Rigotte de Condrieu or a plate of kedgeree. | 86

Andrew Jefford | Green steel-silver with gold glints: pale among its peers. The color led me to expect something nuanced and refined, but this is a little heavier than that, and rather one-dimensional. Let’s give it some time in the glass. Five minutes later, not notably different. On the palate, this is a slightly rough-and-ready example, with a little more summer fruit than the clumsy nose suggested. Plenty of soft acidity here. Perfectly drinkable but not a star. | 82

John Livingstone-Learmonth | Yellow robe with a little sheen. The bouquet is fat and obvious, on glazed fruits, honey, butterscotch airs. The palate is fueled with a rich level of content, is weighty and grounded, therefore apt for veal, pork, Asiatic cuisine. It carries soundly into its finish. It’s sound, but lacks a tiny bit of pedigree. 2021. | 87