Neil Beckett | A consistently outstanding cuvée here, with a perfectly judged 25% whole-bunch and 50% new oak (as for most of the grands crus here this year). A luminous mid-ruby. Great complexity and depth on the nose, a lovely light whiff of white pepper from the stems. Very graceful on the palate, despite the depth and intensity, at once mineral and succulent, a really sublime texture, more cashmere than silk, so densely but finely layered, thanks to abundant but beautifully managed tannins; perfectly seamless, thrillingly long. A brilliant rendition of this still generally underrated cru. | 96