Neil Beckett: The most impressive of several worthy grands crus here, reflecting the ever-greater involvement of the house in vinification. In this instance, all the fruit is sealed in a tonneau and left, eventually yielding one and a half barrels of outstanding wine. Deep ruby. Beautiful fruit intensity on the nose, and a layered richness on the palate—cushioned but not padded; effortless, fresh, harmonious, and refined. 18