Neil Beckett | A well-judged, well-managed 40% whole-bunch and 30% new oak, bottled a little earlier than usual to capture the fruit. Medium-deep ruby. A noble nose, complex, darkly fruited, richly spicy, expressive but unforced. Elegant on entry, supple, almost velvety, but density, intensity, and matière, too, and a spiraling finish. Hors classe village wine, and clear premier cru potential, surely. | 90