Neil Beckett | A very beautiful wine, as usual, from the domaine's oldest vines, more than 104 years old and still producing superb grapes. The very knowledgable general manager here, Sylvie Poillot, explained that while the general rule is 30% new wood for village wines, 40% for premiers crus, and 50% for grands crus, in 2017 these proportions were reduced to 20%, 30%, and 35% respectively to reveal more of the fruit. The proportion of whole-bunch, on the other hand, was slightly higher than normal—80% for this Mazoyères—because the stems were so ripe, though as usual they were laboriously and meticulously trimmed to use only the "skeleton." Such sensitive winemaking has been fully rewarded in a superb range, this Mazoyères being close to the very top. Floral (peony) seduction, and a light herbal edge to the fragrance; caressing, creamy old-vine texture, with fabulous purity and transparency, but terrific tenacity, too. Like a glorious volatile anaesthetic, floating and comfortably numbing, but one that leaves all the right senses heightened. | 96