Neil Beckett | The other bottling of premier cru Charmes tout court, gentle, graceful, and generous, certainly shouldn't be overlooked, but this selection from superior Charmes-Dessus again shows why it merits separate treatment. Pale gold, natural luster. Still very proper reserve, but great aromatic density and intimations of the intricacy to come. Greater dynamism, energy, intensity, purity, and tension than its twin—and even than the Perrières, which it rather outshines in those terms—but still flowing and supple, with very impressive length. | 93