Neil Beckett | The Puligny Champ Gain is fine, floral, and flowing, but this Champ Canet is flying. From a parcel of old vines, whose naturally low yields are further reduced by virus, Stéphane wondered at one stage whether they ought to be grubbed up, but the quality of the wine, as evidenced here, saved them. Brilliant pale gold. Fine acacia honey and heady floral scents. The creamy, supple texture of old-vine fruit, and astonishing intensity, saturated and sustained, so the magical combination of opulence and scintillation. | 94