Neil Beckett: Medium-deep ruby. A lovely nose: very beguiling, classy, and distinguished, with licorice, light spice, and an earthy nobility. Dense, elegant, and racy on the palate, with a superb textural refinement that is far removed from the more astringent tannic style of the past. As Erwan Faiveley says, attention to the myriad details is bringing its rewards. A revelation for those who have still to try these wines under the new dispensation. 17.5