Simon Field | More gentle of color than some, with aromatics that cede to the most modest of swirls... thyme, garrigue, leather, and attractive plum fruit. The palate is dense, rich, and unashamedly opulent, with loganberry and spice to the fore, jasmine and violets behind it, and, holding up the rear, a teasing savory twist. Hedonistic and demotic, for sure, but not without a smoky, vibrant, and somewhat insouciant Mediterranean swagger. | 94

Andrew Jefford | Clear black-red in color: one of the lighter of the 2016 cohort in color. Savory, composty aromas, with plenty of sweet thyme in the mix: settled, balanced, with a markedly regional appeal. One sniff of this and you have to think of the garrigue-covered, herb-sweetened hills; it’s almost as if the wine has inhaled its environment. On the palate, you get all of that cascade of garrigue character, too, wrapped up in a relatively fresh, light- to medium- bodied red of poise, vivacity, and charm. Hard really to better this as a summary of its place, though there are deeper, denser, grippier, more ambitious, and more powerful wines in this tasting. This, though, might cost much less than they do... 2018–21. | 89

Jancis Robinson | Mid, slightly grayish crimson with a pale rim. Subtle, unforced, and slightly saline on the nose. Very mellow on the palate, and not at all unlike a Châteauneuf. A little bit of heat and alcohol at first and then some dry tannins that suggest thick grape skins and a pretty dry summer. Some freshness on the finish. Very 21st-century wine. Should continue to evolve. 2020–27. | 90