Simon Field | Delightful deep purple, obsidian at the core, and an expensive nose of raspberry compote, peaches, and cream. Youthful woody extraction informs the palate, honed on the carpenter’s bench, the latent succulent sweetness far from evolved, the rigors of intervention holding sway today. But one to watch, I suspect. | 89

Andrew Jefford | Very deep, dark, intense opaque black-red in color. Bottle 1: Odd, reductive-stinky nose (bottle 1); let’s try bottle 2 (which is the same). Something a little yogurt-like, too. This stinky element clears a little with time in the glass, suggesting reduction, but not wholly (turmeric later). It doesn’t draw me in. The aromatic false notes are a shame, since on the palate this is a firm and ambitious wine with intense, curranty fruits, plenty of tannic support, balanced acidity, and with a long finish. Maybe a good double decant would do the trick? 2018–20. | 87

Jancis Robinson | Very dark blackish crimson right out to the rim. Ripe, caressing nose that has something very slightly Australian about it! This reminds me of a very ambitious New World red from the 1990s made with enormous care. Lovely and gentle in texture, with layers of ripe black fruits and some dried herbs. Very seductive but with a worryingly high level of VA. But it is capable of giving hedonistic pleasure in the short term. 2018–21. | 88