Simon Field | Purple rim, with a little episcopal fade; myrtle and blackberry, clean and elegant; palate has chalky tannins, hints of spice and graphite, a Syrah lift and a savory backdrop. Jambon cru and a touch of pine needle. Youthful, but finely constructed, with robust simplicity at its core. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Deep, saturated red-black in color. Dense, close-textured weave of aromas: brambly black fruits with ample sweet herbs, pencil scents and licorice, too. Ample late-summer warmth and compost-like complexities, tough less pure and focussed than many of its 2016 peers (and some might find the compost off-putting). In the mouth, this is intense, driving, surprising linear and sinewy, but concentrated and characterful, with a rain of fine tannins toward the very end. Low yields and a fine site, evidently. It’s not a total charmer in style, but for me this is a very gastronomic wine, serious and rewarding, full of intricacy, classical in construction, with fine aging potential. 2020–30. | 89

Jancis Robinson | Standard deep crimson. Powerful, ripe blend with a bit of acidity obvious on the nose— Carignan? Spicy. Marked acidity on the palate, too. Ungenerous for the moment, with slightly rustic tannins on the end. And that acidity is really very dominant now. That jagged acidity really worries me. 2020–25. | 86