Andrew Jefford: Deep red-black. Very ripe and generous; you’d never guess this came from a vintage with a cool August. Fine aromas in terms of cream, mushroom, and fur: the Pomerol sensualities. It doesn’t have any notable fruit notes, by contrast, but it is highly allusive, and I don’t feel the want. (In fact, half an hour later they are clearly there: lifted, sustained, quasi-Burgundian plum.) A lovely palate: pure and dancing, and those beautifully defined fresh plum fruits emerge on the palate; it has impressive length, poise and freshness and purity. The tannins, too, are magnificent: generous, textured, and supple. Bravo! 2018–25. | 93

Michael Schuster | A gentle ripe fruit fragrance also marked by a clear new wood; a fine, and refined, gently juicy core fruit somewhat dominated by its tannin, especially its dry new oak tannin, which pinches and abbreviates a fine core fruit. Good, but in essence a too “chewy” texture for the available fruit? Will certainly need time. 2026–35+. | 89