Stephen Brook: The toastiness of the nose does mask the fruit character, and perhaps the SO2 also has a subduing effect on the aromas. But that attack is sumptuous and velvety, with seductive peach and orangey fruit that bursts into the palate. This has admirable concentration but the acidity is sufficient to ensure it’s not heavy or fat. Long, toasty, and complex, this has vigor that counters the unctuous fruit. Perhaps it lacks a little finesse, but the exuberant and polished fruit certainly makes up for it. | 94

Andrew Jefford | Bright, clean lemon-gold. Very fresh and pristine on the nose, with lovely teasing botrytis and lanolin richness; there’s lemon and crème anglaise beneath. In the mouth, this is rich, mouth- filling, and satisfying, packed with extravagant, clean, expressive, and potentially perfumed sweetness. For the time being, it is lemony fresh with a clean lanolin succulence, but further complexities certainly await. 2018–29. | 93