Alison Buchanan: Very attractive amber-tawny in color, this offers a rather heady brew, rich in nuts, candied orchard fruit, and spice. The palate mirrors the aromatics presented on the nose, an abundance of nut praline and tarte tatin—apple, caramel, and brioche to the fore. Sumptuous in texture, rounded and supple—indulgent. | 91

Andrew Jefford: Clear russet red. This may be a tawny style, but the scents remind me more of Madeira than Tawny Port: a deep casky refinement, a hessian darkness over dessert-apple freshness. Very enticing. Salty, deep, scouring, and searching on the palate, with magnificent fruit-saturated acidity making the central palate seem almost dry before the great wave of sweetness breaks, surging and foaming into the finish. Lovely tobacco, herbal, and plant bitters bring complexity to the finish, and that salty note is an element of balance, too. The fruits are raisins and the memory of grapes, figs, and plums. A super wine and clearly a step up in age from the youngest categories. | 94

Margaret Rand: Good rancio nose, tar and coffee and dried fruit and nuts, and same on the palate. Very integrated and expressive, layered and complex. Lovely. Feels older than 15 years, very intense and concentrated, powerful; very big, but subtle as well as imposing. | 94