Alison Buchanan: Pretty amber in color with green lights, this offers a beguiling array of nuts and marmalade, citrus peel and caramel—crème brûlée. The palate is drier than suggested on the nose, really nut driven with toffeed praline notes, and a long, candied finish. | 90

Andrew Jefford: Mid-depth of russet-amber. Complex, nutty, oxidative complexities, with plenty of patina of age: walnut, dry leaf, furniture polish. Intense, succulent, concentrated, and amply nutty, with lots of aromatic resonance. There’s a bright, almost coruscating acid component that makes for a very lively palate; and an innate sweetness and wealth of fruit which thickens the wine, even though it finishes in rousingly dry style. Outstanding fortified wine in the dry Oloroso idiom, and very moreish. | 91

Margaret Rand: Nice nose of coffee, dried fruit, and nuts. Some properly searing pungency, like an old Amontillado or Palo Cortado. Very clean, concentrated, and rich, with lots of lovely rancio, very powerful and long. Impressive. Lots of age and excellent balance. | 93