Alison Buchanan: Very deep mahogany with an amber rim, this has an intense, polished old-furniture nose. There is some dark dried fruit in evidence, earthy and sombre, allied to black coffee and dark chocolate. The palate exhibits extraordinary depth and opulence, dark dried fruit and spice—with those church-like polished furniture aromatics once again coming through. Despite the opulence, there is energy here and focus—rather serious. | 92

Andrew Jefford: Dark, dense, walnut-ebony wine. Wood, mint, oranges, raisins, smoke, vanillins: they’re all here somewhere. Warming and wild. Slightly strange on the palate, though, as there’s a big flush of acidity here from somewhere which to me seems rather alien. Otherwise the treacly sweetness is fine, and it retains some of the perfumed complexities we noticed on the aroma. I just can’t understand why this wine might be naturally acid; a wonderful drink nonetheless. | 85

Margaret Rand: Pungent, almost steely, with citrus-peel notes and lovely tension. Sweet and bitter at the same time, lush in texture but not cuddly. Fine, elegant, with a firm structure, high acidity. | 92