Alison Buchanan: Deep tawny, with a firm amber rim, this has a rather spiritous nose, orange liqueur and grilled fig notes, allied to thick-cut marmalade and warm fruitcake. The palate is harmonious and layered, candied nuts and clementines laced with bitter dark chocolate and gentle hints of treacle toffee. There is an intriguing juxtaposition of opulence and earthiness that, somehow, works. There is just enough energy to guide a rather languid, protracted finish. | 87

Andrew Jefford: Deep, clear russet brown. Sweet, soft, and enticing scents: the moist muscovado sugar, the seep of treacle, the dusty wink of the old cask, which momentarily finds itself in a shaft of sunshine. Yet very vapory and fresh, too; pure and pristine. Deep, tangy, generous, and bright, though with a lighter texture than most of its peers; toffee and treacle sweetness to finish. | 88

Margaret Rand: Faintly medicinal nose; palate sweet, figgy, some dried herbs, again slightly medicinal on the finish. Unusual, characterful wine, linear, good acidity, tight. Not much on the nose, which is a pity. The rest is elegant, concentrated, tense. | 92